Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
